‘The Golden Road, a tapestry of Islamic Heritage and Soviet Legacy shaping modern Uzbekistan’, aims to explore the country complex cultural and political landscape through the lens of its unique historical heritage. A former member of the Soviet Union, the country has been experiencing a phase of transition towards a more liberal approach of governance and international relations, since the passing of its former authoritarian leader, Islam Karimov. Under the new reforms, the country has notably reversed on decades of isolationism, and now heavily relies on the promotion of tourism and foreign trade. This unique period of transition will be documented through a study of country’s historical heritage, ranging from the golden age of Islam to the recent period of Soviet rule. Specifically, through the influence these various eras and politics still hold on the country today. .
Khiva, Itchan Kala, Muhammad AminKhan Madrasah. A young couple lingers in the last moments of daylight in the shadow of the 19th century Madrasah. In recent years, policies have swerved away from traditional Islamic Law, the Sharia, and given unmarried couples the “right to a private life”, creating a new dating scene in which Uzbek youth is still finding their bearings.
Khiva, Itchan Kala, Pahlavon Mahmud Complex. An Imam takes a stroll in the Mausoleum’s courtyard after blessing several unions earlier in the morning. The Nikokh-Tui, or wedding ceremony, is a grandiose religious event which often gathers hundreds of guests, and forms the cornerstone of Uzbek religious life.
Khiva, Itchan Kala, Juma Mosque. Built between the 10th and the 18th century, the Juma Mosque is a symbol of religious continuity in Uzbekistan and of the millenial influence of Islam. With its 212 wooden columns, it is also a prime example of the intricate craftsmanship for which the region was renowned in the days of the Silk Road.
Bukhara, Mir-i-Arab Madrasah. Built in the mid 16th century, Mir-i-Arab is the oldest operating madrasah in Central Asia. The institute welcomes students from across the muslim world who come in hope of studying the Islamic faith. The courtyard is closed to the public, and can only be accessed by scholars in between classes.
Samarkand, Shah-i-Zinda. The Mausoleum complex’s heritage spans across over a millenium of Uzbek history, with tombs devised by rulers and influential thinkers alike across several periods.Here, an Imam can be relaxing in between recitations of the Quran at the heart of the complex, next to the tomb of Muhammad’s cousin, Qutham bin Abbas.
Samarkand, Shah-i-Zinda. The entrance to the Khodja Akhmad Mausoleum, built in the 14th century, with its intricate patterns of terracotta tile, a testament to the architectural abilities of the Golden Age.
Khiva, Itchan kala, Islam Koja Minaret. The Islam Koja Minaret, despite it’s appearance, was built in 1910 in the midst of Khiva’s old city; a bid by the then vizir to leave his mark on the Islamic architecture of the town.
Samarkand, Tilya-Kori Madrasah. Details from the main hall of the Madrasah, the last addition to the pre- existing Registan Square in the 17th century. The elaborate patterns and complex geometry represents the era’s scientific fascination.
Tashkent, Hotel Uzbekistan. Built as part of a plan to reconstruct the capital after the devastating 1966 earthquake, the brutalist architecture demonstrates the influence of the soviets outside the realms of politics.
Tashkent, Pakhtakor Station. The Tashkent metro, inaugurated in 1977, was part of an infrastructure development project funded by the U.S.S.R. to modernise central metropolises across the Union. Still in operation today, along with newer lines, each station represents a part of soviet cultural heritage. Here, under a mosaic of an athlete carrying the olympic torch, symbol of the importance of sports under communist rule, an Uzbek policeman patrols the platform.
Tashkent, Chorsu Bazaar. The Bazaar, or market, has long been at the heart of life in Central Asian cities. Built in the 1970's by the Soviet government, Chorsu was an attempt to reconcile millennial traditions with modern values.The bazaar is at the crossroads of traditional Uzbek heritage and Soviet influence, where daily necessities ranging from horse meat to cottage cheese and carpets are sold in and around the blue iron dome.
Tashkent, Old Town Neighbourhood. In the vicinity of the Chorsu Bazaar, numerous food stalls cater to sellers and buyers alike, offering traditional Uzbek meals such as Plov, a rice and lamb based Pilaf dish, with bread and green tea. The importance of meals as a social event cannot be understated, and sharing food, often with strangers, is a common occurrence for most Uzbeks.
Bukhara, Xuja Nurobod. In the heart of the “Noble Bukhara”, once a significant stop along the Silk Road, numerous stores have opened for the recent influx of tourists caused by policy changes since the death of Islam Karimov, former president of Uzbekistan who led an autocratic regime, heavily restricting tourism and outside contacts with the rest of the world.
Republic of Karakalpakstan, Kungrad. The republic of Karakalpakstan, an autonomous region in the west of Uzbekistan, possesses an abundance of natural ressources, amongst which the country’s largest reserves of natural gas. Due to these reserves, the price of Metane is a fifth of Petrol’s. As a result, most cars in the region have been modified with gas tanks and run on Metane. However, the queues to fill up their cars can often take upwards of an hour, stations closing at midday to ration ressources.
Syrdarya region. The transport infrastructure in Uzbekistan still relies heavily on soviet made trains and railways, which connect all major towns over more than one thousand miles. However, in recent years, national contracts have brought foreign made, modern high-speed trains to the country, greatly improving travel times between cities where alternative travel methods are burdensome, due to the overall poor conditions of the roads in the country. Here, a Spanish train from the Talgo manufacture connects the towns of Jizzakh to Tashkent, with the Turkestan range in the background.
Republic of Karakalpakstan, Qizil Qum. In the remote northern areas of Karakalpasktan, at the edge of the Qizil Qum desert, the quality of life has yet to improve to the standards of the capital. While some are fortunate enough to own cars, oftentimes old Ladas from the soviet epoch, other still travel by horseback or even camel, such as this farmer with his camel pack.
Republic of Karakalpakstan, Muynak. Formerly the fourth largest lake in the world, the once-magnificent Aral Sea succumbed to the pharaonic irrigation projects of the Soviet Union, in order to supply the massive central asian cotton industry from the 1960’s onward. Where bustling Ports formerly populated the coastline across Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, providing the major economic activity for the region and it’s inhabitants at the time, sparse ghost towns built around a long- gone shoreline remain.
Republic of Karakalpakstan, Muynak. The town of Muynak, in northern Karakalpakstan, perfectly represents the scale of this ecological catastrophe. One a thriving fishing port supplying the semi-autonomous Uzbek region, its shore now lies more than 150 kilometres away from the current Aral coast. The few remaining deserted fishing huts now line the streets of the town leading to the former port, of which solely remains a modest lighthouse.
Republic of Karakalpakstan, Muynak. But the most vivid example of the disaster’s amplitude lies just below the cliffs which formed the waterfront. Abandoned boats are neatly lined-up in the sand, at the mercy of the elements and the few passer-by leaving their marks in the forms of graffitis. Beyond, until the horizon, endless dunes that once formed the seabed, now inhabited by errant cows masticating the scarce vegetation.